It is imperative that the toe to cuff finishing be elastic enough for the sock to fit over the foot and at the same time not slouch on the leg.
The most common method of bind off is to use a needle 3 to 4 sizes larger than the needle size used to knit the sock. Bind off in pattern.
Maggie Dicey contributed three bind-off methods for a toe to cuff sock she has gleaned from Sock Knitter’s Listserv.
1. On the last round before the bindoff, add 25% more stitches with either M1, backward loop, or lifted increase. Bind off loosely in pattern.
2. Add more stitches to the bind off round: *bind off 2, YO, bind off the YO; repeat from *.
3. Use a suspended bindoff with a larger size needle: Work 2. *Put the yarn in place for the next stitch. Using left needletip, lift the first stitch over the second, but do NOT drop it from the left needletip. Work next stitch and discard both (the just-worked stitch and the suspended stitch) from the needle. Repeat from *.
Below is a more complicated bind-off. Often, I use a pattern stitch in the leg portion of the sock and then, add 2 rounds of ribbing, in order to have the base for the bind-off. The two rows of ribbing are almost buried and do not take away from the pattern.
When you complete your last round, cut a generous tail.
Faux Kitchener Bind-off for 1 x1 or 2x2 Rib (named by Louise Herz)
The grafted bind-off can be worked by starting on needle 1, or on half the stitches at a time by slipping half of the sts onto one needle and the other half onto another needle.
Step 1:
Using two spare dpns, holding them in your right hand, slip the knit stitches from the working needle to one spare needle and the purl stitches onto the other spare needle..
Stop and look at the two needles. On the side facing you, you see all knit stitches and all the purl stitches on the back needle.
Step 2:
Thread a tapestry needle with the tail. The tail should be coming from the back of the two needles.
Step 3:
With the yarn coming from the back insert the tapestry needle as if to purl in the first stitch on the front needle. Leave the stitch on the needle.
Step 4:
Insert the tapestry needle as if to knit in the first stitch of the back needle and pull the thread, leaving the stitch on the needle.
This is the hardest part!
Now you can get into a rhythm of K1, remove, P1 on the front needle and P1, remove, K1 on the back needle.
Watch how it works.
Step 5:
Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front needle as if to knit and remove stitch from needle, insert in second stitch as if to purl, pull the yarn through and leave the stitch on the needle. (front needle K1, remove P1)
Step 6:
Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back needle as if to purl and remove from needle. Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch as if to knit, pull the yarn through and leave stitch on the needle. (back needle P1, remove K1)
Repeat Steps 5 and 6 until you have one stitch left on each needle.
Repeat from Step 1 on the second needle, and then on the third (and fourth if using 5 dpns). End with inserting tapestry needle knitwise on the front needle, remove, insert tapestry needle purlwise on the back needle and remove. Weave in tail.
This sounds much more complicated than it is. Once I get going, I keep saying to myself, Front : K1, P1. Back P1, K1. The end result is worth it.
This is the one time not to try to pull the thread tightly to gauge. Work the bind off with adequate ease for elasticity..